b'soul-stirring journeysTALK TO OUR EXPERTAnita Sahianita@enchantingtravels.com+1 720 551 8481Blooming mustard field, Rajasthan Farmer, Rajasthanof camels. They appeared to be wild but, in a moment,JEWELS OF NORTHbusiness sold jalebissmall, intricately twisted Indian we were met by the herders. Fortunately, KrishanINDIA AND KERALA doughnuts soaked in sugar syrup. The jalebi man was spoke their dialect, so we learnt quite a lot about thea gentle soul, lit by a single lightbulb above his head. camel trade. With the increased sales of tractors in theHe sat cross-legged, level with two boiling vatsone region, the price of camels had halved. Although itfull of oil and the other with sugar syrup. His portrait is was camel lakhana, or the mating season, the herdersundeniably my favorite. wondered if they could afford to continue to breedIn the pre-dawn light Krishan and I wound our camels given the low returns. They asked us to joinway up through the streets of the old town, to the them beside the fire to enjoy some chai made withbase of Mehrangarh Fort, which dominates the city camel milk. If taste buds have memories, mine would19 Nights from $ 5,790 /from its promontory. As day broke over the Blue City, savor the memory of that sweet and delicious camelperson the greens and blues looked almost phosphorescent.milk tea.Delhi (3), Varanasi (2), AgraAs the sun rose higher, Krishan and I made our way After a three-day stay in Jaisalmer, Krishan and I (2), Ranthambore (2), Jaipurdown into the city. We stopped for chai beforereturned to Jodhpur. The next day was to be (2), Deogarh (1), Udaipur (2),returning to my hotel. This unplanned day, is one of unplanned. Before he dropped me off at my hotel,Cochin (2), Mararikulam (3) the most memorable of the trip. Krishan asked me if I would like to get up at dawn toenchantingtravels.com/Ive spoken to many fellow travelers in India,take some clicks from the foot of Mehrangarh Fort.my-indian-adventure both before and since my trip, but no one has stories The next morning, Krishan collected me at 5.45that compare. The freedom my bespoke itinerary am. However, instead of taking the van, we walkedallowed me, to roam where I chose at my own pace, through the deserted Sadar Market and Sharif Chowk.made all the difference. With Krishan behind the The normally bustling laneways were empty, save forHeritage Safari wheel, we seized spontaneous moments and turned street cleaners finishing their nights work and templethem into travel experiences. Its what made my Indian workers beginning theirs. The sole food stall open forBeaches adventure the Best Ever. 24 \x1a BE ENCHANTED'