b'OUR ITALYEXPERTHeather Alcott-Moritzenchantingtravels.com/italyHeather with familyVittorio Veneto square in MateraPHOTOS: JP DESVIGNE ON UNSPLASH (VITTORIO VENETO SQUARE), MICHELE-SCALA ON UNSPLASH (CAVE SCULPTURES), SEXTANTIO LE GROTTE DELLA (HOTEL), HEATHER ALCOTT-MORITZ (CIRLCLE OF LIFE SCULPTURE & FAMILY) Circle of Life by Andrea Roggi Sculptures in caves Hotel Sextantiofrom Tuscany. Wherever you walk in the city, there areMatera bread RECOMMENDED TIME TO GO:art galleries with friendly owners who are happy to chat.Spring (April to June) or fallYoung art students sketch or sell their art on the streets,(September to October) are great and artisans sell their handmade jewelry and crafts. Thetimes to visit to avoid the very city hosts lots of music concerts, from solo performers tohot and very cold periods and the jazz and rock musicians. Little wonder then that Materacrowds. Avoid Easter week, as was chosen as the European Capital of Culture in 2019.that can be very crowded, too. Materas food scene is outstanding. I can never get enough of Matera bread (pane di Matera), a roughly shaped loaf that gets its unique flavor from the natural yeast made from local grapes and figs. The best place to eat sandwiches made with this bread is at a deli called Uacciardidd. This deli has been family-run for three generations, with a grandmother at the counter. No onewith its Biblical wall frescoes and arched chapels, was speaks English, so you have to point to what you want.a highlight. We also enjoyed Murgia National Park, an You can sit indoors or outside on their small patio withhour away, with its caves, 150 rock churches, ravines, and your delicious sandwich of prosciutto, mozzarella or othernative flora. Italian cheeses, marinated vegetables, and a glass ofThe fact that so many films have been shot in Matera is wine. Matera has one Michelin-starred and five Michelin- perhaps testimony to the wonderful location. Scenes in recognized restaurants; my picks are Le Bubbole andthe James Bond movie No Time to Die were filmed here, Baccanti. Another top favorite is La Lopa, a restaurantas were numerous Biblical films like Ben-Hur and The that showcases traditional Matera food. Beyond the food,Passion of Christ.I like the movie on the history of Matera they show in aAlthough it has a long and ancient history, Matera is lower cave. Its the perfect setting for understanding thean international city with a blend of old-school Italian historical significance of this place while sipping a glassand modern. Importantly, it is a city with the most of wine. I also recommend Terraza Cavaliere for Aperolmesmerizing landscapes Ive ever seen. A scene I recall spritz or cocktails and jaw-dropping views of Matera.that always puts a smile on my face is of sitting on a My family had fun exploring the historic centre of Matera,Matera terrace, watching a shepherd walking his cowsits narrow winding streets, churches, and stone-carvedup and down the mountain, against the backdrop of a dwellings. The famous 9th-century Crypt of Original Sin,setting sun. ENCHANTING TRAVELS\x1a39'